Restaurants

The original Covent Garden restaurant that spawned the idea for Antonio Carluccio’s successful café chain may have closed for good, but the concept of providing simple, traditional Italian food served in unassuming surroundings, goes from strength to strength. More outlets are planned beyond London. The utilitarian-looking deli-cum-cafés are blessed with generously long opening hours, making them perfect places for breakfast, or for lingering in after a late dinner. They do, however, get busier and deafeningly noisy at lunchtime. Large antipasti to share and textbook pasta dishes remain the fortes, with a surprisingly good selection of vegetarian-friendly food. Penne with courgette, chilli and deep-fried spinach balls stood out among more traditional gnocchi and filled-pasta dishes. Don’t expect to find top-notch authentic regional cooking. The fegato alla veneziana (calf’s liver with onions) was a poor relation of the original recipe, and betrayed the disappointing quality of the ingredients. Nevertheless, even at the busiest times, staff are charming and accommodating.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008