Restaurants

Given that Assaggi is renowned for celebrity custom and premium prices, you may be surprised how relaxed and informal this discreetly positioned restaurant is. Upstairs from a pub, with furniture on a par with that found in gastropubs and brasseries, it is decorated simply in bright colours, with the only extravagant gesture being a spectacular triffid-like flower arrangement that threatens to engulf the room. Normally we sigh when a wine list starts at above £20, but the nuragus at £21.95 is an interesting old Sardinian grape variety and a highly satisfying choice. Other Sardinian touches include the use of pane carasau, fregola pasta and bottarga on a menu that sticks to what it knows best. Tuna tartare included tiny cubes of radish, cucumber, capers and a topping of sesame seeds. It was good, but outclassed by a glamorous plate of pan-fried tagliolini patties with lobster pieces and a good thick fish-stock sauce. Truffle was generously scattered over a main course of tender pork fillet like a ticker-tape parade. Assaggi’s tiramisu features a strong, juicy layer of black coffee. Flourless chocolate cake with ice-cream is another classic dessert produced with textbook precision. Service is efficient and confident, the manageress ebullient and jokey. Saturday lunch is in our experience the best time to visit.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008