Restaurants

This lively gastropub, part of the small Food & Fuel chain, satisfies on most levels without ever being sensational. There are good ales – Hook Norton, Bombardier and Adnams were featured on our visit – and the service is excellent. The dining room feels a bit dark and is something of an annexe to the noisy front bar where the action is. The menu consists of a range of pub classics and salads with a few smart British dishes, such as dressed Cornish crab, thrown in for good measure. Mostly these are done very well. Côte de boeuf and chips was excellent, albeit bleu rather than rare. We also had a great burger and some enjoyable starters – in which a smoked mackerel pâté stood out. The letdown was an insipid risotto of broad beans and pea shoots, and a sticky toffee pudding that lacked treacly stickiness. Come 11pm it might be just you and the staff left – very sobering.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009