Restaurants

One of the strongest attractions of this place is the location. It can be inspiring to wander off the Strand through the arches, across the majestic courtyard with its rising and falling fountains, particularly on a bright, clear day. That is when the dining room looks its best too – the sea-green leather, high arched windows and ship-shaped chandeliers adding to the nautical theme that reminds you of the Thames just out of sight below. On our lunchtime visit, almost every table was taken by groups of colleagues from nearby offices (Inland Revenue, BBC World Service) and we formed the clear and welcome impression that the Admiralty is on better form than before. Each dish, though not overly ambitious, was served in great condition: pan-fried pigeon breast was perfectly tender and pinkish purple; a warm salad of french beans, red onion and sautéed halloumi was well-balanced and fresh. Mains were just as good. The caramelised edges on a rump of English lamb contrasted with the hot pink centre, and a pork fillet remained juicy under a brie and pine nut crust. In warmer months there are tables on the terrace with a different menu.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009