Restaurants

Besuited after-work crowds milling across the pavement make it easy to spot this smart City pub, run by the same Martin brothers as the Well in Clerkenwell, the Empress of India and other successes. The finely restored wood-panelled bar had enough space to make elbow-rubbing only an optional activity, and there seemed plenty of table-space to sample the superior bar menu. The upstairs dining room is a separate restaurant, with sleek mirrored decor, but the two menus have similar features. We sampled the more elaborate and elegantly presented dining room menu, beginning with a delicate salad of smoked black pudding, quails’ eggs and tarragon mustard, and a full-on rich ballotine of foie gras with Sauternes jelly. We were still more impressed by our mains: superior pan-fried scallops with champagne velouté, and Gloucester Old Spot pork belly with perfect crackling and beautifully rounded flavours. The wine list is sophisticated, with many modern labels at reasonable prices. Greene King IPA, London Pride and a guest are the draught ales. Service is zippy and charming; we were immediately asked if we wanted a second bottle of wine, but then, that’s a City habit.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009