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When much of the point of chains is to offer uniform standards, it’s curious that this outlet of Geronimo Inns is our favourite by such a margin. It’s popular with E3 residents too. The interior features pretty stained glass, a bizarre collection of restaurant chairs and a similarly ragtag library of books. Rolling up for a late Sunday lunch we were promptly and warmly greeted, seated and served. The choice of draught bitters isn’t thrilling, but we found consolation in a cheerful bottle of cabernet sauvignon rosé from Chile. High-quality 28-day-hung roast beef came with super yorkshires, but the roast potatoes had been hanging around too long, and the melange of vegetables was overcooked. Still, we were impressed with the ‘risotto’ (really a pilaff) of quinoa and baby spinach, and the generous fillet of crispy sea bass that came on top of it. Chips were also in fine fettle. A healthier option would have been to start with, say, the carrot and cider soup. We finished with a respectable sticky toffee pudding and a gooseberry crumble that would have been superb save for the burnt flavour lent it by the last-minute use of a blowtorch.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009
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I'm a lawyer working in the City. I'm very keen on music and play several musical instruments, including playing sax and singing in a band which...
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I'm vegetarian, and live around the corner from the Morgan, and somehow on the 3 occasions I've been in to eat, the menu has offered me the same thing; risotto. Butternut squash risotto is lovely, if a little sloppy and over-parmesaned, so it's quite heavy and the portion is massive. They're always willing to make a starter bigger for the vegetarians, which is great if Goat's cheese is your thing.
After the first visit i was really looking forward to the second, but was disappointed as i had to have the same thing. I'd like to go there and NOT have risotto one day.
The Morgan Arms is a real gem among gastro pubs. Many places promise to serve British classics with a modern twist in a relaxed atmosphere, but very few succeed as well as this one. I’ve been there twice now and both times the service was personal, but not over the top and the food truly amazing.
For starters, the devilled whitebait was lovely and crispy with just the right amount of spice, the chicken paté was creamy and full of flavour.
Our main courses were crispy fishcakes with spinach, perfectly poached eggs and a lovely creamy sauce, streaks cooked to perfection (even the one we ordered blue - a sign of a true chef!), crispy julienne fries, tender poached lemon sole and perfectly cooked vegetables.
The deserts were a sweet and rich sticky toffee pudding with thick cream, apple and blackberry crumble that with a perfect balance of sweet crumble and tart fruit, served with home-made vanilla custard and a rich chocolate crème brulée.
Overall this wasn’t a cheap night out, but it was an absolute pleasure and real value for money. I will definitely be back.