Restaurants

The very essence of a gastropub, the Anglesea has a clubby front room with comfy sofas around a roaring fire in colder weather. The sky-lit back extension packs in lots of wooden tables alongside the open kitchen, a blackboard proclaiming the daily menu. One constant seems to be oysters. Even in ‘R’-less breeding months, the recommended (and cheapest, £8.95 for six) Irish were plump, sweet and tasty, simply served with shallot vinegar, tabasco and lemon wedges – though the accompanying dense chunk of bread was inedible. A starter of squid with fennel, garlic and coriander disappointed; the fennel salad seemed undressed and the squid had an off-putting hint of grill-rack residue. Mains were more successful: sea bass with braised little gem, peas and mash; and roast lamb with minted aubergine and roast tomatoes. Both were excellent, with every component perfectly cooked. Sadly, the range of summery light beers to accompany the lamb was poor, but the wine list is lengthy, with quite a few at reasonable prices. Tinpot Hut Marlborough New Zealand sauvignon blanc (£5.95 a glass) was perfect with the fish.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009