Restaurants

Hearty is the obvious word to use about the Easton’s full-on food. A lamb and rosemary pie with beans, mash and gravy featured deliciously crisp pastry, and could have fed two; braised rabbit, tomato and chicken stew came on top of a plateful of pumpkin and polenta. Best of all was roast lamb with herb and vegetable couscous, harissa and yoghurt, which ideally combined generosity with fresh minty natural flavours. The blackboard menu focuses on main courses, with not much that’s smaller and (on our visit) only a salad and a risotto for vegetarians. There’s a decent wine selection, but nothing special for beer-drinkers beyond now-standard lagers and one ale (Timothy Taylor Landlord). The bar-room with its archetypical stripped wooden floors and battered tables is broad and open, and so best when there’s some warm sunlight to flow in through the big windows. On gloomier nights, it can feel quite chilly. Service seems especially casual even by gastropub standards, and so can be very friendly or annoying, depending on who’s on that day.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009