Restaurants

The façade of the former Bank of New York building, dating from the 1920s, still emanates power and money, with the impression continuing into what is now the huge dining room of this Harvey Nichols-run restaurant. Vast columns soar up to the ornate corniced ceiling, and the room is filled with well-spaced tables and a huge bar down one side. Bright modern art and cool 1960s-style red leather chairs add some colour. There’s a narrow ‘conservatory’, which is not as airy as it sounds. The menu promises strong flavours: roast Anjou pigeon comes with pickled chinese cabbage, pastilla and star anise vinaigrette in a complex starter; the dish featured a good-quality bird and well-made pigeon-stuffed pastry, but a lot of flavours fought for attention. Not every flavour punches its weight, witness the anaemic red wine sauce accompanying a confit sea trout and braised lentils. The gin ice-cream with rhubarb crumble was well-made and delivered a pleasing kick from the alcohol. Service is cheerful and effective, which is no mean feat given the size of the place. As this is the City, most customers wear suits.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009