Restaurants

An unpromising location on dreary Junction Road hasn’t stopped St John’s becoming a hit in the gastropub world. It has the right quirky-artsy look, with an airy stripped-down bar (serving Black Sheep, Timothy Taylor, modish lagers) and touches of grandeur in the cavernous main dining room at the back, lined with an unclassifiable collection of paintings. The chalked-up menu shows ambition and originality, and mostly delivers on its promises. A cheddar and spring onion croquette with squid and chorizo was unusual, the seafood nicely offsetting the cheese. The quality of fresh ingredients is impressive, bringing alive simple choices like an apple, fennel, green bean and manchego salad. Some of our party thought the fish at the centre of seared tuna with chips, rocket and very smooth aïoli could have been more exciting, but a ribeye steak with walnut jus hit all the right notes, and was cooked exactly as requested. In line with house style, the wine list is also above the norm, with carefully picked lesser-known labels at accessible prices. Service can be erratic, but on a good day it’s friendly and efficient.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009