Restaurants

Although we’ve had meals of varying quality here in the past, on a recent visit the Peasant launched itself into the upper class. The giant main bar of this old Victorian pub – where you can try own-brand Wat Tyler lager as well as other quality beers – is comfortably spacious, with magnificent original tiling as a touch of grandeur. The first-floor dining room, lined with circus and theatre posters, has an airy relaxed feel and service is charming and alert. There are separate menus upstairs and down, but many dishes are shared. Both lists present the same attractive blend of satisfying flavours and sophisticated, globe-trotting inventiveness; cooking throughout seems to have developed a notable finesse. For Sunday brunch we enjoyed some first-rate fish and chips, with lovely crisp delicately flavoured batter; tomato and goat’s cheese tart with rocket and grilled figs was brightly refreshing, and the trad roast beef impressive. Leave space and time for the scrumptious desserts: maybe a light bread and butter pudding with caramel sauce, or the irresistibly intricate ‘B-52’ chocolate parfait. The wine list is as interesting a read as the menus, and very fairly priced.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009