Restaurants

Jokey monikers on restaurants can be off-putting – this one comes from the name of Laurel and Hardy’s dog, star of a movie of the same title – but maybe you have to do something to get attention in such a functional part of SE1. Pictures and little figures of Stan and Ollie feature in the original decor. A cosy bar area leads into a rather romantic all-white dining space, with cool high-backed chairs and eclectic artwork. To eat, there are gastropubby bar snacks, or an often elaborate-sounding main menu, plus daily specials. Dishes don’t seem to taste quite as well as they read, and some were misnamed on our visit; smoked salmon came with capers instead of the promised gherkins, and beef medallions turned out to be two small steaks. Our choices were pleasant rather than anything to savour; a chorizo, tomato and pepper risotto was well-flavoured but heavy. Some prices seem high for food of this quality, yet portions are big, and the one waitress worked hard to keep everyone happy. A decent standby in an under-supplied area, but nothing more.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009