Restaurants

While nearby Old Street becomes an increasingly manic party district, this secluded civilised pub is a homely escape for enjoying laid-back drinks or a square meal. The decor is modestly trendy: walls and wooden furniture are painted white and embellished with an assortment of portraits, photographs and stuffed animals. The main bar is a small single room, but clever use of communal tables maximises the available space. In good weather there’s extra seating outside. Upstairs is a dedicated dining room, though the same menu is available throughout. Food is hearty and filling, but nothing special, and there were some disappointments on a recent visit. The plates were fridge-cold. A burger arrived filled with a big blob of overpowering cheddar, not fully melted, and yet the bun seemed unheated. A slab of pork belly was overdone: the flesh too dry, the skin so caramelised it was almost rock-solid. Less involved starters of mackerel pâté and wild mushrooms on brioche were better. Drinks include draught Black Sheep, London Pride, Hoegaarden, and Leffe, plus a fair selection of inexpensive wines. The cooking could use a boot up the backside, but the pub offers atmosphere in abundance.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009