Restaurants

Festooned with wicker baskets and bunches of dried flowers, this retro French bistro is a much-loved icon for wealthy Chelsea residents. Although a tad cramped and a trifle dark, the rustic decor creates an inviting, intimate vibe, at odds with its top-end prices. There are no English translations on the all-French menu, but friendly waiters are helpful enough. This is coq au vin and bourguignon territory; expect no new-wave punches. Starters were impressive: a steamy helping of French onion soup delivered sweetly mellow notes, emboldened by meltingly soft onions. Equally delectable was a deep bowl of delicately scented, herby fish broth populated by a medley of juicy scallops, mussels and white fish morsels. Mains were robust: a huge helping of succulent rabbit cloaked in creamy, mustardy sauce worked especially well with homely boulangère potatoes. Deliciously rosy magret duck breast didn’t reach the same heights, and was let down by a surfeit of lime-infused meaty jus; and crème brûlée lacked the vanilla it needed to tickle the taste buds. House wines are excellent, fairly priced and flow freely from magnums.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008