Restaurants

A favourite with parents who can park their prams by the tables, this cheerful pub occupies an elegantly striped brick building with plenty of original Victorian features lending an atmosphere as warm as the welcome. In the dining room, furniture isn’t so much rustic as decrepit – we worried that we’d leave wearing half the stuffing from our chairs. Staff are slightly too unhurried, so our two-course lunch took nearly two hours. At least that gave time to enjoy the excellent beers, including Black Sheep Bitter and, on our visit, guest ales Tinners and Quaff. There’s a limited choice of desserts, but they come in generous portions, are wittily presented and incorporate quality ice-creams or custard. Starters tend to be stereotypical: salads, ham terrine and soup. The chips looked good, and the mash and green beans are nicely done. Bread, however, was substandard and main-course portion sizes were variable. Star of the short, hard-to-read blackboard menu was tender chargrilled calf’s liver with bubble and squeak. Beef bourguignon was correctly imbued with the taste of red wine. There’s an appealing brunch menu too, taking in all the popular ways with eggs, smoked salmon and bacon.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009