Restaurants

With the doors pushed back and the weather cooperating, this is a cool, breezy spot that makes The Cut look far more attractive than seems possible when you walk along it. Around half the room was devoted to tables laid for lunch on our weekday visit, and several were free even after 1pm; you’re unlikely to be as lucky post-work. Also surprising was the number of pensioners enjoying this favourite destination for food and style mavens. But such folk know the pleasures of dishes like cold roast beef on dripping toast, and brawn: both of which featured on the appealing menu on our visit. British asparagus salad with soft-boiled quail’s egg went down a treat, despite its curious garnish of almost-black breadcrumbs. Whole crab – a special – came with a big glass of delicious mayonnaise, but the kitchen seemed to flail when it came to more involved dishes, such as our horribly gluey pot of almond cream topped with preserved cherries. Own-made lemonade was a nice idea, but too sharp. For drinkers, this proper pub has a list of classic cocktails and aperitifs, and a good wine list; beers include Brains, Bombardier, Kirin Ichiban and Erdinger.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009