Restaurants

A spacious street-corner terrace is one of the House’s prime assets, bringing a touch of café society to Canonbury summers. Inside, the decor is mellow chic: far more restaurant than pub, but with a dining area that can feel distinctly cramped when busy (which seems to be often). Dorset crab spring rolls with ginger and a ketchup dressing were delicate and interesting, if a bit oversweet. We were more impressed by our mains: pan-fried sea bass with ginger and lime dressing; and a perfectly grilled pork chop with spinach, mustard mash and a wonderfully smooth shallot jus. The kitchen seems to have a special way with spuds, making lightly sautéed new potatoes with the fish, for example, a highlight rather than just another pile on the side. Wines are suitably refined but pricey, with not much under £20. Adnams is the sole draught ale. The House also opens for breakfast at weekends, so you can sit outside to sample own-baked pastries or a hearty full english.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009