Restaurants

Roussillon is both a gastronomic destination and a neighbourhood place. On our visit, the clientele included families with young children, elderly couples, and friends out for a quiet dinner. You have to be well-heeled to treat this as your local, but that’s no problem in Pimlico. The decor is subdued, the service solicitous, and the food sublime. Chef Alexis Gauthier refines the richness of south-west France with artful assemblies in pleasingly modest portions. Those sizes are important, making it possible to eat two courses but then have room for dessert. And trust us: you really want to have dessert. Four of us came for dinner, and only one of our 12 dishes failed to elicit gasps of astonishment. Among the stars of the show: perfectly cooked scallops with thin slices of crisp pear and cep marmalade; juicy squab pigeon with a salad made from its liver; lamb served two ways, the shoulder braised and shredded, pink slices of leg with an indecently buttery potato galette. The menu changes with the seasons and vegetarians have their own eight-course tasting menu. On the excellent wine list, the Languedoc and Roussillon will see you through from apéritif to dessert. Prices start at around £20, but £35 will do full justice to the remarkable food.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009