Restaurants

Brace yourself. Many-hued tartans cover almost every surface except the walls, which are mustard yellow embellished with strident murals of Scotsmen and women. High-backed gothic banquettes, deep-buttoned crimson and black, stand against tartan room dividers, and the only colour lacking is natural daylight. A waiter explained that the designer took his inspiration from the restaurant’s signature ingredients: Aberdeen Angus beef and smoked salmon. We felt obliged to try one of these rich sources of artistic licence, in the form of roast beef and yorkshire pudding from the reasonably priced set lunch menu. Carved from a great hunk of flesh on a silver domed trolley wheeled to our table, this was extremely tasty, yet let down by fussy turned carrots coated in thick orange juice, woolly roast potatoes, and broccoli under gloopy hollandaise. Dishes plated in the kitchen, such as red mullet on squid ink risotto, and a pleasant pear tarte tatin with ginger ice-cream, were better. Better still are the à la carte options, which might include fillet steak served with blue cheese potatoes, bone marrow and wild garlic. A cheerful place to go – with money – to liven a cold grey day.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008