Restaurants

Progressive caterers for the working class are the words etched on the glass of this gorgeous little revamped chop house. Its now trad food for the middle classes, along the lines of potted shrimps or steak tartare to start, pork chop with black pudding hash or battered haddock and chips for mains, and rice pudding with apricot jam to finish. Theres no doubting the quality of the ingredients grilled calfs liver (with bacon, mash and onion gravy) was deliciously dense without being rubbery, jellied Irish eels robust but not overwhelming but theres sometimes room for improvement in the cooking; our pork chop, for example, was badly burned in parts. A sure-fire main is the salmon fish cake with sorrel sauce; its a modern classic. Prices are very reasonable. Lovely staff contribute to the warm, intimate ambience; the place oozes charm, though its hard to settle in for a long session if youre perched on the narrow benches in one of the nine oak booths. Youll be shown how to arrange the cushions to make the seating more comfortable, but a certain amount of wriggling is inevitable. Nice at any time of day, QCH makes an especially good brunch destination.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008