Restaurants

Harrison’s , the latest venture of Sam Harrison (co-owner of Sam’s Brasserie in Chiswick), opened in October 2007. Like the west London original, this is a lovely laid-back venue. It has eased snugly into a corner site in the funky part of Balham and makes much of its neighbourhood credentials. Brunch is a particular pleasure – on a hot summer’s morning the windows are thrown wide; a jazzy soundtrack accompanies the buzz of happy, white-aproned staff in the central kitchen area; and a mixed Balham clientele slouches on the big, brown banquette. The design is beautifully simple: wood, flowers, metal kitchen, lots of muted light. For brunch, try the house salad of tomatoes, avocado, caramelised onion, lettuce and salty crayfish tails; or an utterly succulent cheeseburger with own-made spicy chutney and frites. The tuna niçoise contains just-boiled eggs, a bouncy bed of leaves, and a slab of barely seared tuna. We envied the stack of buttermilk pancakes on the next table. In the evenings or at lunchtime, the culinary approach is just as simple – cumberland sausages, pan-fried mullet, and so on. There’s a separate menu (and face painting) for the kids, jazz on Sunday evenings, and a private bar. In all, just what any neighbourhood needs.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009