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With its wonderful location on the brink of the Thames, just opposite the Tate Modern, Northbank feels like a place for a special occasion. There’s a terrace outside where you can sip cocktails as the sun goes down, and picture windows in the dining room which frame the golden lights of the South Bank at night. The menu is short, straightforward and mainly modern British; ingredients from the West Country are favoured. Our roasted veal marrow bones with caramelised snails on toast were so delicious we almost had to lick the plate, while Brixham mussels cooked in ale with cream, shallots and thyme were delightful. Mains were mixed: a pea and mint risotto was overcooked and seemed completely unsalted. Service was charming but a little chaotic – we had to wait an age between our first and main courses. Still, romantic lighting and the air of bonhomie emanating from the banquetted booths and other tables helped to create a charming evening. And we like the wallpaper: 19th-century toile de jouy at a glance; on closer inspection filled with vignettes of contemporary London life.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009
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