Restaurants

By Jenni Muir

After several years in Richmond, chocolatier William Curley suddenly seems to be all over W1, opening a concession in the new John Lewis food hall in October, and now this smart Mayfair shop.
Current holder of the Best British Chocolatier crown from the Academy of Chocolate, Curley has always made pâtisserie an important part of his range and this outlet shows it off to best effect with a dessert bar, open until late in Shepherd Market, and a perfect conclusion to a night out at the nearby Curzon cinema.

Resident pâtissier Sarah Frankland, who previously worked for Angela Hartnett at The Connaught, produces desserts to order in front of customers, who perch on sleekly designed stools and sip a pre-dessert of chilled chocolate and mint milk (included in the £10 cost) while watching tarts filled, pastry cream piped, ice cream churned and decorations shaped.

On our visit, only two desserts were available - a hot Chuao chocolate tart with raspberries and green tea ice cream, and rum baba (yeast cake) with caramelised pineapple - but a longer menu shows ambition. Also available are coffees and fine teas; you can enjoy them with a cake or pastry at one of the tables if preferred.

Over on the chocolate counter is William Curley's award-winning range of fine chocolates, more indulgent pâtisserie, plus Japanese-influenced baking including wonderful miso and walnut biscuits and matcha and red bean roll cake.

Time Out London 1944: November 21-27 2007