Restaurants

An oasis of civilisation in chain-reactionary territory. OK, there are four Nouras in London, but each is different and the interior at this branch is exceptionally dramatic, with a two-storey crimson wall dotted with little round mirrors. Silky cushions are scattered with abandon. Hedonism reigns in the evening when a DJ stokes up the decibels, but even at lunchtime there was a birthday party at one table, while business was being done elsewhere. Staff can rise to any occasion – so, generally, does the food, though given the prices of even the quite heavy ‘light menu’, so it should. Most of the greatest hits (exemplary silky-smooth and smoky moutabal, tabouleh all the more refreshing for parsley outweighing bulgar, crisp falafel, lemony dolmades and tidy little fatayer) were executed with dash, if not perfection. There’s nothing outré on the menu, but for a variation on the minced lamb and pine kernel matrix, there’s kibbeh bissayniyeh: a slice of minced lamb, cracked wheat and pine kernel layer cake, jauntily accessorised with yoghurt and mint sauce. Kofte was spot on. Service is slick and responsive too. Noura gives eating out in the West End a good name.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009