Restaurants

On a quiet sidestreet, Ali Baba functions largely as a takeaway with a restaurant at the back. It seems a desultory spot, but its unique selling point is Egyptian food. You’ll find the full repertoire here, from molokhia to koshari, via fuul and tamaya (falafel). We were big fans of the fuul on a recent visit, which was mashed into a coarse paste with lashings of olive oil and plenty of spicy flavouring – very different from Lebanese versions. Koshari (a mix of rice, vermicelli and lentils topped with caramelised onions) was too plain, needing more oil and onion. We also tried grilled lamb and chicken (both well-cooked, tender cubes of meat), and the Egyptian national dish, molokhia: a soupy stew with a distinctive slimy texture, served with rice and, in this case, chunks of lamb; it’s an acquired taste, but this was a good, robust version. Ali Baba is a family affair. It’s not licensed, but you can bring your own. After a couple of beers, some good food, and a chat with the owner’s daughter, the place didn’t seem so desultory after all.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009