Restaurants

London’s low-key monument to the Egyptian culinary repertoire, Ali Baba serves a gamut of dishes, from street-food staples such as fuul and falafel to adopted favourites such as macarona (as Egyptians call macaroni in béchamel sauce) and escalope panée, via ‘only in Egypt’ recipes like molokhia (a stew made with meat and a green leaf that lends a distinctive slithery texture). Customers are, in the main, an appreciative audience of nostalgists (Egyptians and others). They know this food’s never going to be fashionable, and often it’s not even that good. On a recent visit, our molokhia was somewhat watery and not well seasoned. But we hit the jackpot with another trad choice: a comforting om ali, a piping-hot bread and butter pudding with sugar, nutmeg, raisins and coconut; we loved its sweet crispy crust. Lunchtimes can be quiet here, but things often get lively in the evenings. The interior recently had a makeover: gone is the old dark decor; walls are now cream, lights are halogen. Only the kitsch paintings of medieval Cairo remain, along with the pleasant people who run the place.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008