Restaurants

Fairuz distinguishes itself from Londons other top-tier Lebanese restaurants with a very different vibe. Instead of the usual smart-international look, this little place resembles a generic Med-taverna, with rough-plastered white walls, wicker chairs and fold-back frontage for fine weather. Its a relaxed, pleasant spot, although tables are packed quite tightly and it can get loud. Food is consistently excellent. Take falafel: someone had worked wonders, transforming the workaday chickpea ball into a crispy shell with a soft, almost fluffy filling. Its the best weve tasted for a while. Fuul moukala was a little unusual, but satisfying; the green broad beans were more oniony and spicy than usual. Other hits included a subtly spiced batata hara; and shankleesh or aged cheese, as the menu put it. Shankleesh is sometimes served as a salad with crumblings of the powerful cheese, but in this version the cheese was crumbled wholesale on to a plate, and dressed with black pepper, lashings of olive oil and a generous topping of walnuts wonderful. Jawaneh (chicken wings), with a garlicky mayonnaise, packed in even more flavour. A selection of complimentary pastries with our Turkish coffee brought a fine meal to a fine end.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008