Restaurants

By Guy Dimond

Here's a treat: a simple, hugely popular neighbourhood restaurant that serves great Persian food in a convivial setting. It's not licensed to sell alcohol but you can bring your own booze, and will not be charged to do so.

Persian food tends to be fragrant and colourful and, although the dishes here aren't as refined as at the very best restaurants in London, they're all very fresh and of good quality. Make sure you order the naan-like bread from the tiled tandoor-like oven. It is thin, slightly elastic and dusted with sesame seeds, a perfect foil for dishes such as kashk o bademjan, grilled aubergine cooked with onions and kashk, a Persian whey that's a bit like dried yoghurt.

Khoresh gheimeh (lamb stew with dried limes) was tender, the sour note of the limes ameliorated by the addition of yellow lentils and tomatoes. Delicately marinated kebab of boneless spring chicken was served with saffron rice topped with little sour barberries.

Service ran smoothly despite the press of people on the very busy Friday night of our visit. Faanoos means 'lantern' in Persian, and this one's glowing brightly.

Time Out London Issue 1945: November 28-December 4 2007