Restaurants

Black pillars and white napery set the scene, and British food is the star (handmade ravioli notwithstanding). Hoorah for Yorkshire ham, Scottish beef, eccles cakes and British cheeses. Excellent cullen skink with generous chunks of smoked haddock started our lunch. The daily special was chicken pie, but the Mercer pie won the toss. A light-as-air pastry lid covered an adequate amount of rump steak and mushrooms in London Porter Ale; a side dish of spinach was needed as accompaniment. Though grilled calf’s liver, the pieces elegantly draped over tiny specks of kale and cauliflower, wasn’t as pink as promised, the accompanying rich, sweet onion sauce saved the day. So did the patriotic puddings. Pimm’s jelly, studded with appropriate fruit and veg, and tangy summer pudding sundae, amply made up for earlier minor disappointments. Staff keep glasses filled and dispense rather boring bread. The drinks of choice seem to be the selection of Meantime beers, but there’s an extensive wine list with many by the glass. This City restaurant is ideal for eavesdropping on the chattering bankers; it also offers a great chance to show off delicious British food to overseas guests.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009