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York & Albany
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York & Albany Ming Tang-Evans
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By Guy Dimond
‘The cocktails are great, aren’t they? And this place is just so wonderful,’ said the friendly, tipsy blonde sitting beside me at the bar. The thought did cross my mind – was she a plant from Ramsay Holdings, there to talk up a bar heaving with press in the first week? ‘We’re local, you know,’ said her equally blonde friend, as if reading my mind. ‘And this place is just the best thing to have happened round here for years.’
They were right of course. Camden hasn’t seen anything like this new Gordon Ramsay Holdings hotel, bar and restaurant which just oozes glamour at the northern end of grimy Parkway. The building’s a former coaching house, designed by John Nash in 1826 as part of Regent’s Park. The York & Albany monicker is a reference to Prince Frederick, Duke of York and Albany – better known to most of us as ‘The Grand Old Duke of York’.
York & Albany looks low-lit and discreet outside, like a private club. Step inside and the place exudes bonhomie and wealth. The horseshoe-shaped bar’s a beauty, and the staff really are expert cocktail makers; I studied them, impressed, for 20 minutes. This is not a lager-swillers’ pub; they do sell beers, but it’s the cocktails and wines by the glass you come for. Leather sofas and high bar stools make the place resemble a hotel bar, which of course, it is (the ten rooms cost from around £180 per night).
Past the chichi deli which sells Italian-accented stuff for rich folk – a window-dressing exercise, with only token amounts of fresh wild mushrooms – is the main dining room. Angela Hartnett oversees the whole operation, but it’s chef Colin Buchan handling the Modern European menu.
The quality of ingredients is excellent. A starter of smoked duck was cut carpaccio-thin, topped with pea shoots; the meat was fine-grained and flavoursome, like a cured ham. Breast and leg of partridge were cooked perfectly by separating them, the bird then reunited on the plate. The potato mousseline it sat on was so dairy-rich it was virtually potato-flavoured butter, but kale made a good foil for this fat overload.
Oven-baked halibut was a delight, the stock infused with the rich smokiness of chorizo and the texture of white beans. The accompanying pail of chips were the only disappointment, being limp not crisp.
The starters and main courses we tried were very good,but dessert clinched it for us: the prune and armagnac tart is moist and fragrant, yet with a pleasing bite on the teeth.
Service throughout was impeccable, from the greeters to the barmen to our waitress. Great service helps give the place a real sense of occasion, yet – for the time being at least – you’re only paying gastropub prices.
As we left, I stuck my head downstairs to see the other dining room, which is decorated in bold reds and comfy banquettes, like a brothel. Gordon Ramsay was there, schmoozing and glad-handing tame journalists and assorted hangers-on. But there’s no need – York & Albany will do brilliantly on its own merit, without the need for any Ramsay X-factor this time.Time Out London 1990: October 9-15
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Time Out reviews restaurants anonymously and pays for meals. Of course, we cannot guarantee the accuracy or independence of user reviews.
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Details
- 127-129 Parkway, Camden, NW1 7PS
- Area: Camden
- Tel: 020 7388 3344
- www.gordonramsay.com
- Book online
- Category: Modern European
- Travel: Camden Town tube
- Times: Bar open Mon-Thur 12noon-12midnight; Fri, Sat 12noon-1am; Sun 12noon-11pm. Restaurant open Mon-Fri 7am-10.30am, 12noon-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm; Sat 7am-10.30am, 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30-10.30pm; Sun 7am-10.30am, 11.30am-3.30pm, 6-9.30pm
- Service charge: 12.5%
- Services:
- Outdoor tables: courtyard tables, open only in good weather
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Having never had the pleasure to dine at a Ramsey resturant i now know what i have been missing, this was a sheer delight from the moment we arrived till the moment we left, the food was top class by the head chef and im sure it will not be long till he receives the much sort after Michellin star, well worth a vist in fact its a must, another jewel in the Ramsey crown.
Beautiful place, relaxed, unpretentious, great addition to the neighbourhood.
Liver & foie gras parfait as a mise en bouche to kick off, stunning, the smell was out of this world! Followed by a beef carpaccio, nice starter. Then I had braised pork belly with black pudding & potatoes, melted in your mouth great! And I finished with a good choux, vanilla ice cream & chocolate pudding, the pastry could have been a little bit lighter but that's to be a little bit picky!!!! And best of all the price, cooked by Angela Hartnett for £15!
A mixture of Italian influence & classic French using the best of British produce. Winning combination. Also a good wine list at very affordable price.
Then we got star struck! Jean Batiste was there (Gordon's best Maitre d'), extremely friendly he took the time to have a long chat with us, a pleasure. Then the man himself, Gordon walked in the main dinning area, shook our hand and had a few kind words, unbelievable!!!!
Then on our way out Angela was talking to a big table but again shook our hand, spoke to us for a brief moment & wished us to come back soon...
WE WILL! And you, what are you waiting for, go there now...
The atmosphere is unique. The decor appears to be like many at first glance when in fact it is a blank canvas that relies on the diners and the food to come alive - and it did. A very clever design. What impressed me most was the team spirit amongst the staff. They were 'joined at the hip' making the service outstanding and seamless: something which is surprisingly rare in London restaurants these days. They were all happy, confident and quietly proud to be working there.
The menu was fabulous and I could have eaten everything. The first surprise was a luscious chicken liver and fois gras parfait which was so light it very nearly floated out of its kilner jar! The second was to be escorted to the ladies with unassuming charm and grace by Mr Ramsey.
Tricky to find as its so new and completely unbranded so our taxi driver really struggled but once there we were greeted by a very well furnished restuarant.
All staff were extremely polite and helpful and most importantly the food was amazing.
With an aperitif cocktail, wine, bottled water, three courses of food, coffees and 12.5% gratuity our bill came to £270 for four people, which is still amazing value.
I will be going back as a soon as possible
We went to York and Albany last night for my partners birthday celebration and it was fantastic!! I highly recommend the tables in view of the kitchen. The food was delicious and service was great. We were lucky enough to meet Gordon himself and will be beaming for weeks!