Restaurants

Knaypa certainly makes a design statement, with its rippled purple plastic ceiling, coloured mirrors on the walls, spotlights on the floor and shocking red leather chairs. Piped dance music (even on an otherwise quiet Saturday lunchtime) adds to the half-deserted disco feel. For a calmer meal, head for the basement where the owners have gone for a folksy look, with knotted-wood furniture and soft lighting. The new menu plays to the kitchen’s strengths – hearty and authentic Polish cooking. We were brought rich, creamy smalec (seasoned pork fat to be eaten smothered over rye bread) while we waited for our starters of fried smoked cheese with chutneys, and dill-spiked gravadlax. Both these were very salty, but as the Polish proverb goes ‘without salt, the feast is spoiled’. A main course of stuffed rabbit leg with creamy mashed potatoes and sage sauce was expertly prepared, and less of a shock to the British palate. There’s an extensive drinks list, served from the neon-lit bar; the choice of vodkas is worth a shot.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009