Restaurants

Situated in the relative Siberia that is the hotel restaurant, where many Londoners and non-hotel guests seldom tread, Bord’eaux nonetheless offers a pleasing, well-crafted dining experience. Taking its cue from the Aquitaine region of south-west France, the brasserie style of the restaurant starts with the smart decor (which hasn’t escaped the hotel feel and is a little anodyne and lacking in atmosphere) and extends to the menu. Think familiar French fare in the mould of confit duck, cassoulet, côte de boeuf with béarnaise and a variety of seafood platters. There’s even a main course comprised of a combo of croque-monsieur and croque-madame. Joining these classics are a few Basque dishes such as pipérade, an egg and pepper stew. We had few complaints with a competently prepared salad of duck breast topped with poached egg, and also enjoyed pudding, the list of which includes old-fashioned floating islands (meringues bobbing in custard), crème caramel perked up with Sauternes-soaked raisins, and an archetypal death-by-chocolate plate of Valrhona desserts. Overall, the menu and its execution deserve a setting with a little more verve.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009