Restaurants

The scanty Kinks memorabilia (this was the scene of the band’s first concert) might be an affront to fans, but while a more characterful decor would be welcome, there’s no denying that Muswell Hill needed a great gastropub like this. The Clissold has proved an instant hit with sophisticated local families. Its friendly, enthusiastic staff are keen to promote the wide-ranging wine list, but haven’t forgotten their pub status. Timothy Taylor Landlord was poured properly, left to settle then topped up without us having to ask. Chicken and mushroom pie had a lovely thick, sticky filling and a buttery, tissue-like pastry that should have been a tad thicker. A wide balti-style pan was the unusual receptacle for an accomplished fusion combo of monkfish with chorizo, preserved lemon, new potatoes and spicy sauce. We love the yorkshires-for-all Sunday roasts too. Desserts (a sickly-sweet rhubarb eton mess, maybe) are generally less accomplished, but decent grub nonetheless.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009