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Gazette
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By Guy Dimond. Photography Veronique Leplat
As the second branch in a growing chain (the first at Battersea Reach), we'd expected simple wines and modest food at this little French brasserie. Instead, the wine list shows enthusiasm and daring from the two French owners. The list is nearly all French, but with good producers and a range of styles across prices (with plenty of interest for under £20 per bottle, and more than a dozen choices by the glass). They also have a great selection of beers, proper French ciders and dessert wines. And the menu might be short, but they do it well.
All the staff are French, which may explain why they got so many things right - avoiding the clichés of French decor, but revealing a French approach to the dishes. The cut of beef called bavette (skirt steak) was surprisingly lean, beautifully seared on the outside and correctly rare (as requested) on the inside, topped with a sauce of shallots slow-cooked with red wine and jus. A fillet of cod had a perfectly crisp skin and was served with chervil root, an esoteric 'new' vegetable now cultivated in the Loire valley and Brittany (the tiny tubers have a texture and flavour between yam and parsnip). These tubers arrived via Rungis market in Paris.
Desserts are more classic, from creme brûlée to apple tart. Our île flottante was ethereally light, the egg whites and sugar gently cooked in a bain-marie to set the delicate foam; the accompanying light custard had visible fragments of real vanilla in it.
Gazette's a great little place to while away the time staring out of the French windows towards Balham High Road, or to doodle in chalk (provided) on the slate-topped tables. Most of all, it captures the feel of France better than the many faux-French brasseries in central London.Time Out Issue 1965: April 17-23
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Details
- 1 Ramsden Rd, Balham, SW12 8QX
- Area: Balham
- Tel: 020 8772 1232
- Website
- Book online
- Category: Brasseries
- Travel: Balham tube/rail
- Times: Open daily 7am-11pm
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An altogether disappointing experience. A menu that looked classic French proved a huge disappointment that even the pleasant venue and well meaning staff could not overcome. Food turned up lukewarm and took a long time. Side orders were forgotten or arrived after the main courses were already eaten. The puddings that sounded so delicious on the menu were a greasy apple pie and thick, oily chocolate mousse.
I was really annoyed to arrive at Gazette and find that the special offer that I had booked through the Time Out website was not valid and that despite having the confirmation email and text the manger felt no inclination to honour this.
I understand that opening a restaurant is expensive but with the mark ups on alcohol and the need to breed good will in a newly opened neighbourhood venue I feel that he should have honoured the reservation.
Walked in at 8.30pm having booked a table. The staff seated us and then proceeded to ignore us for 15 minutes while handing menus to other people who arrived after us. We asked why the four of us were being ignored and the sniffy staff just shrugged. We walked. There are plenty of places in Balham which appreciate one's custom so why visit one that couldn't care less?
This new addition to Balham is still finding it's feet, but as it's gets steadier it gets better and I can see it turning into a popular place for brunch on the weekend. On first appearance it feels as if it hasn't quite worked out what look it is going for. The heavy tables with slate tops, and massive mirrors speak rustic chic. However the lampshades and bizarre red feather wall hanging from the wall shriek burlesque.
The food is good and well priced, what feels like authentic french cooking without pretension. The rustic feel is carried through with many dishes coming straight from the hob to the table in the same cook pot. A bit more attention to detail is required. Our croque monsieurs were delivered to the table despite being decidedly brown around the edges, but apart from that there were no complaints.
The lemon and sugar crepes are delicious especially with extra lemon. One plate shared between two was quickly shared amongst seven and another seven orders placed.
I can't wait to go back again, I just wish they'd get rid of the red feathers...
Very disappointed with this new Balham local that has the right vibe and what potentially could be a fantastic menu but failed to deliver on the food front.
Our party of five had starters & mains, and between 10 dishes not one person had a good thing to say about their meal (lacklustre chicken & risotto with the taste and texture of rice pudding to name but 2) and in some instances were missing various accompaniments - we didn't dare ask as service was so slow.
We decided not to order desserts as the first 2 courses did not leave us with much optimism.
Hopefully this is just opening jitters!