Restaurants

At the end of 2008 Osteria Stecca changed name as chef-proprietor Stefano Stecca parted company with his colleagues, but in most other ways the restaurant carries on much as before; the sous-chef has become the chef, and all the other staff remain the same. What follows below is our review immediately prior to Stefano Stecca's departure. - Time Out February 2009

Osteria Stecca’s large front terrace, with its big black umbrellas and smart box hedging, is the choice spot for a balmy summer night. But if this is full – as it was on our visit, with an upmarket local crowd, many of them Italian – the adjacent conservatory is almost as nice. Even the back of the restaurant is light and airy, with a simple, modern decor of white walls and linen, and dark-brown chairs and floor. The menu offers classic dishes from the north and south of Italy, often with a modern slant. To start, buffalo mozzarella with grilled vegetables, and tuna three-ways (as tartare, seared and sashimi) showed that minimal interference with top-grade ingredients pays off; the tuna was sparklingly fresh. Less so a main of sea bass (a rather meagre fillet), which was mushy and didn’t taste fresh enough; the accompanying fennel was overly sweet too. Seafood risotto won points for both taste and texture. Ice-creams and sorbets dominate the dessert list. The all-Italian wine list, about 80-strong, provides ample choice for under £30.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009