Restaurants

By Guy Dimond

Saf sets new standards for vegan and raw food restaurants. Part of an international chain (branches in Istanbul and Munich), US-based executive chef Chad Sarno presumably spends the rest of his time creating beautiful dishes for size zero Hollywood stars to trifle with, such is the artistry of his work. It's almost a shame to eat dishes this pretty; and it's even more remarkable when you realise these compositions, with their vivid colours, variety of textures and unusual flavours, are created almost entirely from uncooked fruit and veg (only low temperatures are used to cook a few of the ingredients).

Seed sprouts feature as garnishes, carefully-placed drops of oil and balsamic vinegar help make the plates look like the work of a haute cuisine chef. The so-called 'cheese' courses are made from crushed nut-milk, and resemble moist halva; our 'almond cheese' had a remarkable texture and nut-milk flavour, nicely paired with thin wafers of shaved fennel bulb.

Not every dish was faultless; the olive oil sorbet garnishing a cucumber consommé had melted into an oil slick by the time it reached our table, but this soup was still refreshing. From the several dishes we tried, a pattern emerged; the balance of flavours leans towards the savoury or even bitter, and refined sugar isn't used, not even in the desserts; agave syrup is used instead. Our non-dairy ice-cream was flavoured with maca, a fruit from the Andes, and had a texture that was in no way inferior to dairy ice-cream.

Far from being worthy or hairshirt, Saf is a strikingly good-looking bar and restaurant, airy and bright and filled with fashionable Shoreditch folk. The cocktails are good too, and the head barman chatty and welcoming. A remarkable restaurant - and a must-visit if you're a vegetarian bored of eating mushroom risotto or pasta dishes every time you eat out.

Time Out Issue 1969: May 15-21 2008