Restaurants

This neighbourhood bistro looks as though it might have been scooped off the brassy streets of Montmartre. Charming and kitsch – 1950s French posters line wood-panelled walls, the likes of Alain Souchon play on repeat, and waiters serve customers with pouting reluctance. The menu is true to stereotype, offering snails, oysters and cassoulets. However, the smart money is on the fixed-price menu, where for less than the price of a main from the carte you can choose two courses from a limited menu. We started with smoked chicken salads that came carefully stacked like a weaver bird’s nest, with peppery rocket, sweet cherry tomatoes, and generous pieces of breast. A salmon main was presented with equally lofty precision, the flavour of the fish complemented beautifully by fresh dill butter. The sirloin steak was also a hit, though the frites were soggy and bland. We were lured away from the set menu by a fragrant lavender-infused crème brûlée and a glossy tarte tatin – both well worth the detour.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009