Restaurants

Pastel-green walls, blond floorboards and displays of rustic preserve jars may lend Gennaro Contaldo’s restaurant the look of a family-run establishment, but a cursory glance at the menu says otherwise. At Passione, expect to find starters priced above £10 and a special wine list including treasures such as a £550 bottle of 1987 Brunello di Montalcino. With Contaldo busying himself with writing cookery books, the restaurant’s reputation for culinary finesse has been maintained by head chef Mario Magli, with a short but refined menu that features top-quality ingredients. Although primi piatti are limited to a choice of four pasta or risotto dishes, they feature inspired twists on tradition like the remarkable ravioli filled with pear and taleggio cheese, lightly dressed with a simple walnut sauce. At times, though, the kitchen’s wizardry felt slightly contrived, especially in an over-rich main course of lamb loin filled with artichokes, pecorino cheese and mint. Unfortunately, desserts are no match for the inventiveness of the main menu, and service can become distracted as the restaurant gets busier.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008