Restaurants

'A proper family pub!' exclaims the chalked billboard outside this dark pub on a busy main road, which looks anything but. However, the Herne's sensitive gastro refurbishment by the same management as East Duwich's celebrated Palmerston- stained glass, dark wood floots, old theatre posters - proves you can have the best of both worlds. On our visit, a sweaty five-a-side team supping pints of Petermans happily mingled with two Czech students reclining on the Chesterfields with big glasses of wine, and a sqaud of real ale bores lamenting that the Deuchars was off (but pleased to see Moorhouse's, one of 25 rotating guest bitters). Meanwhile, in the side dining room, the intrepid (and, frankly, more wealthy) can tuck into fried brawn with sauce gribiche or organic salmon fillets with cockles and samphire. Definitely worth a visit for May's real ale festival or a special Sunday lunch.

Time Out Bars, Pubs & Clubs Guide 2008/9