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Al Duca
A profusion of blond wood, terracotta hues and crisp white linen lend Al Duca an air of understated elegance befitting its Mayfair location. Affluent locals and theatregoers are attracted. On our visit we couldn’t help admiring the waiting staff, who kept their cool despite having to dodge several unruly children running amok in the busy dining room. The same admiration didn’t extend to the kitchen, whose performance was uneven at best. We were looking forward to one of Al Duca’s signature dishes, a salad of warm poached egg with parmesan wafer, bacon, asparagus and tomato, hoping it would turn out to be an inventive take on Italy’s traditional dish of asparagus and eggs. It was – except for the rubbery texture of the egg. An enticing-sounding risotto of the day with radicchio and taleggio cheese arrived lukewarm and almost soup-like; a plateful of ravioli filled with pumpkin and amaretto, simply dressed with melted butter and sage, was much better. Also on the plus side, the all-Italian drinks list is extensive, featuring lesser-known wines from South Tyrol and an astonishing 17 varieties of grappa.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
Services:
Child facilities: Babies and children welcome: high chair
Dress code: no shorts
Function room: Restaurant available for hire (Sun)
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