Restaurants

This Soho stalwart (in situ since 1926) has recently been reinvented with an agreeably slick hand by brothers Eddie and Sam Hart, the pair responsible for top-quality Spanish eateries Fino and Barrafina . The dishes here have a British/ Modern European bent – a couple of flavours nodding towards Spain excepted (garlic and chilli razor clams). Dover sole and Colchester oysters vie for space with grill-restaurant classics including steaks, rack of lamb and relatively ethically sound rose veal. Sharing plates include a whole roast chicken and a seafood platter, or you could go on a slightly unusual route and sample the squab pigeon. Alternatives that hit the spot include fresh, well-made crab tagliatelle, which you could accompany with a vibrant, virtuous heritage tomato salad. Puddings are a high point, occupying the well-trodden ground of lemon tart and decadent profiteroles. The £2 cover charge for bread, olives and water irked us, but the quality of the food is decent. Besides, if you can afford the £500 annual fee to the members’ club upstairs, two quid won’t hurt.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009