Restaurants

San Lorenzo has been a celebrity haunt since the ’60s, with an equally lengthy reputation for indifferent food and service. A cheery welcome was, therefore, a pleasant surprise, and the menu wasn’t as dull as anticipated. To start we had a satisfying platter of finocchiona (Tuscan fennel salami), and grilled sardines, a mean pair of smallish fish but admittedly fresh and well cooked. Wine choices under £25 are scarce though the waiter recommended a delicious Scalabrone rosato under that price. About this point, everything changed – a glossy throng came down the staircase, heads turned to watch them and service went haywire. We got the wrong wine and our waiter disappeared. Eventually the main courses arrived, saltimbocca alla romana and calf’s liver, both as they should be, although the liver was spoiled by gluey mash. On leaving, we had to struggle past an intimidating cordon of grim paparazzi. So if you like to pay heftily for ho-hum food, have your evening descend into chaos due to an unseen celebrity presence and fight your way past the living dead to get out, this is the place.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009