Restaurants

Occupying a long corner site in the heart of Kentish Town, the Oxford stands out thanks to its matt black exterior and, on sunny evenings, large groups enjoying a drink outside. Inside, a bustling bar and dining room sit either side of a small open kitchen. Large flower arrangements, orange lampshades and old black and white photographs of the locality strike a formulaic but successful note; the loos, however, were shameful. On our visit, the blackboard menu was confusingly different from the printed one, but proffered a good spread of proteins: salmon, halibut, poussin, lamb and beef. Vegetarians could have a terrific timbale of spinach filled with sweet potato and mushrooms, served with tomato, rocket and courgette. Decent roast lamb came with grilled aubergine, red pesto and a potato cake. We liked the choice of cheeses, but old-school desserts were an opportunity fumbled. Sticky toffee pudding arrived piping hot with half the accompanying ice-cream melted over it; the fruit crumbles topping tasted like sickly sweet chalk. Where this member of the Realpubs mini-chain does satisfy, however, is in the choice of draught beers (Sharps Doom Bar, Grand Union, Timothy Taylor Landlord and others) and wines by the glass.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008