Restaurants

In Italy, osterias are basic, family-run outfits serving satisfying, good-value food with a homely feel. Unfortunately this doesn’t apply to Osteria Antica Bologna. While the 1970s dark-wood, cellar-like decor may have its charms, sullen staff and carelessly prepared food do not. This is rather unfortunate, since the large menu includes enticing little-known specialities from Bologna and its surrounds, such as eel and gutsy meat dishes served with mostarda, a classic northern Italian fruit condiment. The own-made saffron tagliolini with red mullet ragù would have been pleasant if it hadn’t been slightly undercooked, and if the olives used in the sauce hadn’t been of similar quality to those found in supermarket jars. The dessert list looked promising, but more disappointment followed when we discovered that the two most appealing choices weren’t available. The all-Italian wine list is basic, yet represents reasonable value. Outside tables overlooking the hustle and bustle of Northcote Road made some amends for the lacklustre culinary experience.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008