Restaurants

In a corner of Hackney where pool tables and a giant TV are still a prerequisite for survival, the Scolt Head has been smartened up. New owner Rosie Haines tore out the old carpets, but left the place feeling like a utilitarian locals' pub. Decent beer is served - Hopback Summer Lightning, Deuchars IPA, London Pride (all £2.80) - and the wine list is brief but thoughtful, listing good producers rather than more obvious choices. The brief, daily changing menu features mains mostly under a tenner, with chicken, leek and potato pie next to gnocchi, and chocolate soufflé cake, each dish benefiting from straightforward, unaffected cooking. There's a small urban garden for smokers.

Time Out Bars, Pubs & Clubs Guide 2008/9