Restaurants

Nothing much changes at Gastro, Clapham’s most venerable bistro. On a recent visit, the service was lackadaisical, the interior musty, and the portions large and rich in animal fat. In other words, it is as French as ever. Soupe de poisson was wonderful: strong in flavour but not too fishy, with a hint of pastis. Scallops were plump and combined well with chorizo and hazelnut. At such a bastion of French traditional cuisine it was hard to overlook the fact that our steak was overcooked, but nevertheless it was tender and juicy. Rabbit in red wine was unattractive in appearance, tasty if a touch gloopy. The standard is not perfect and the food can be erratic but then isn’t that the case with many small-town bistros in La France profonde? The staff seem to be an all-French team, and little details like the bread evoke proper French flour rather than your supermarket baguette. Perhaps Gastro is a bit overpriced and slightly resting on its laurels, but if you’re craving classic bistro food served with a Gallic shrug, it will not disappoint.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009