Restaurants

We’ve had complaints about the quality of food at this Brompton Cross stalwart, but our most recent visit saw the kitchen in fine form. Veal milanese was tender yet crisp and perfectly grease-free. A good chunk of salt cod was glazed with an eggy topping and served with an inventive green bean sauce, the dish held together with a judicious kick of red chilli. Daphne’s flies the flag for British produce (chef-director is Mark Hix), name-checking suppliers such as East Riding lamb, and using traditional ingredients such as cardoons and samphire. Dorset crab was flecked with tomato in a lovely dish of golden tagliatelle. We had no room for dessert, though were tempted by honeycomb ice-cream with caramel sauce, and apricot and almond tart with lime cream. The list of wines by the glass contains the usual collection of Tuscans, plus value-oriented Sicilian wines and a luscious merlot from Friuli. Despite the Porsches, Bentleys and Ferraris lining the road outside, and the seriously Sloaney regulars, Daphne’s has five wines under £20 and an appealing set lunch menu. Staff are caring and generous, adding to the air of conviviality.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008