Restaurants

By Ronnie Haydon

Few café proprietors in the N16 area would dare to say their establishments were anything but child-friendly – the prospect of incurring the wrath of all those militant alpha mamas is too daunting – yet catering for the needs of both parents and the contents of their Maclarens in a sophisticated fashion still poses a problem. These days, too much Ikea plasticware and the very mention of a nugget (goujons are allowed, though) raises a sneer, but an overly adult atmosphere, with no room for the double buggy, risks alienating sociable families.

That Place on the Corner, the cherished nine-month-old baby of local mothers Sam Menezes and Virginia Fiol, would appear to have the balance right. It’s big enough for all the playroom paraphernalia to be laid out at one end, and in any case, the child-pleasing elements are incredibly tasteful – no ball ponds and climbing nets here. There’s a window seat laden with beautiful brightly coloured velvet and silk cushions, a large, low aquamarine sofa, a little library, a pleasantly crafted play shop and a dressing-up corner. The vintage wooden tables and chairs are satisfyingly widely-spaced, perfect for cantering toddlers to run in between.

Creativity is very much a driving force behind the venture – a weekly schedule of baking, crafting, dancing and music making for preschoolers during school hours gives aspirational parents a reason to be off work with their little chicks. After-school classes, and teatime menu (served 3.30pm-5.30pm on weekdays) are also available for children and their parents.

All this, of course, would be of little consequence if the food wasn’t worth coming out for. There’s nothing more annoying than shelling out for nursery food that you could have produced at home. The menu sticks sensibly to the tried and trusted pasta/panini/big breakfast formula, with brasserie staples such as own-made burgers and fish cakes to bring further comfort. Children can choose own-made shepherds pie, spag bol, smaller burgers and plaice or chicken goujons. The chicken, rice and peas combo selected by our nine-year old tester was demolished with relish. The parental choice of a roasted vegetable, pesto and mozzarella wrap was oozing with good oil and flavour. It came with a fresh, generous, olive and tomato scattered salad – excellent value at £5.50.

The most pleasing aspect of all, however, was the service. Staff were overseeing a tastefully decorated party table at the playful end of the café when we visited, but we received unflustered, efficient attention and were struck by the proprietor’s obvious fondness for children; a definite plus, given That Place’s popularity with Stokey’s new generation of pampered anklebiters.

Time Out Issue 1974: June 19-25 2008