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Bob Bob Ricard
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Bob Bob Ricard © Michael Franke
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By Charmaine Mok
'Good things come in threes,' the saying goes. And so it would seem, the Circus has come to town – kind of. After the death of the Circus club, the prowling denizens of Soho’s Golden Square have welcomed the opening of ‘eccentric’ new bar-brasserie Bob Bob Ricard, at the same time as the equally shameless pop album releases of Take That and Britney Spears (with 'The Circus' and 'Circus', respectively).
It would all be gloriously ironic if not for the fact that BBR does err on the side of a spectacle, with its louche interior (David Collins designed, very easy on the eye with lots of marble and leather, gold chainmail and retro lamp fittings), over-the-top glam and ridiculous pink waiter uniforms forced upon otherwise very dapper waiting staff. The champagne buzzer, slyly positioned and designed almost like one of those trap door buttons Mr Burns would use in ‘The Simpson’s’, was a hoot. We marvelled at how, upon pressing, the table’s corresponding number would light up above the bar like an old-fashioned elevator, summoning a waiter to the table.
Already, BBR cuts a fine figure in old-fashioned quirkiness – we half expected the staff to be wearing shoulder pads – but unfortunately when applied to the menu, the result is more dowdy than delicious. There has been a trend of late to hark back to ‘classic British favourites’ and BBR has many retro dishes, from a good hearty fry-up (the most inviting of menus, though we couldn’t bring ourselves to break tradition and have breakfast for dinner) to roast partridge with savoy cabbage, or shepherd’s pie.
Beef tea, that soup of invalids, is interestingly done. Though not the most complex of broths, the presentation of tiny raw beef cubes, a poached quail’s egg and little pasta alphabet letters (B and R, naturally) at the bottom of a china bowl was witty and attractive. The soup itself, elegantly served from a silver teapot by our waiter, enhanced the campness of it all. Another starter, of potted middle white pork belly with perry jelly, was equally precious; we adored the crunchy thin soldier-esque toasts, which were an excellent foil for the creamy potted pork and heady, fresh-tasting jelly.
While BBR prides itself on pushing the ‘English comfort food’ wagon, it’s a pity it has not been done with more skill. Macaroni cheese, for example, was reminiscent of the sort dinner ladies used to dole out: the sauce had an unpleasantly gritty texture, the pasta was slightly overcooked and most disappointing of all, the portion was meagre for a main course. There is no comfort in this dish if it is not big and stodgy, surely.
Still, other things tempted and delivered – ‘scallop and shrimp shell pie’, for instance, oozed with flavour from tiny brown shrimps and a creamy white sauce. Rose tea jelly (topped with sugary petals) with shortbread and clotted cream made us think of our grandmothers’ embraces – in a good way.
There are the makings of a very good brasserie here, perhaps destined to join the ranks of The Wolseley one day. And like the great W, we have a hunch the big breakfasts and afternoon teas will help ensure its longevity – and hopefully not the freak show that is those dreadful pink uniforms.
Time Out December 2008
Time Out reviews restaurants anonymously and pays for meals. Of course, we cannot guarantee the accuracy or independence of user reviews.
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Details
- 1 Upper St James Street, Soho, W1F 9DF
- Area: Soho
- Tel: 3145 1000
- www.bobbobricard.com
- Category: Brasseries
- Travel: Piccadilly Circus tube
- Times: Open daily 7am-3am
- Price: Meal for two with wine and service: around £75
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This article is harsh, at best. The service in BBR is a perfect combination of old fashion formality and friendliness. The uniforms are part of the theatre of the place, which is magical and so commonly overlooked. Everything you order has that aspect of care and attention you only find in the finest eateries. The incredible all-day breakfast menu (complete with freshly squeezed bloody marys and magical scrambled egg) is staggering and really shows they understand the social diaries of central Londoners! The Wolseley may be trendier but the party-weary Londoners will find a much, much happier retreat here, in every way. For me, it's 'home' in a way the pretentious W could never, ever be. One of London's greatest assets. 5 Stars
Interior great, but food overpriced and average. Go for a drink, but not to eat. I won't be going back
Great decor but really overprice food especially considering the measly portion sizes. Surely the words credit crunch need to enter into the pricing equation particularly given the glut of shopping ladies I saw in the place. The decor, although interesting doesn't compensate enough for the stingy "expensive" food.
A RARE TREAT! Service was impeccable, the staff were friendly attentive, just great (though we did come on Saturday of pride so it was quieter than normal I suspect as everyone was outside celebrating at neighbouring pubs)! Decor and lighting a real feast for the eyes. I love the Wollesey and took my visiting girlfriend there for tea in the afternoon to be on the safe side, but feeling indulgent after a hard days shopping with little to show (sigh) we couldn't resist checking out this restaurant for late supper having seen the reviews. I will certainly be bringing visitors for the afternoon tea - its a perfect place to get a taste of deco London and is on parr with the W - I think it will have more charm when busier (after all part of having tea is checking everyone else out, with less of the noise of the W). The signature rhubarb gin and tonic was the perfect pink to compliment the dinner jackets of the staff - so yummy we had two. We shared the quails egg salad (which was a clever take on a scotch egg, with cucumber, cress, mint and coriander - not stingy at all - refreshing starter just right for us ladies watching our waistlines to share) My girlfriend had the generous portioned shepperds pie, I had the halibut (perfection) and we shared a seasonal veg (samphire)! We had a bottle of sparkling water, but had no funny looks later asking for tap water and wow, had refreshed glasses without having to ask! We had affogato to finish and a stroll back 3 hours later to the tube (soaked up the atmosphere, had a good old gab -what you want when catching up with a friend you haven't seen for ages!). Cost 81 inc service. I didn't think pricey for a girly treat - no reservation needed that night and you could be just as expensive or more at other london landmarks.. Afternoon tea priced at 23 which is about the same as the Wollesey and I think definitely worth a try. No pretense, we could have come in for a coffee and cake, or milkshake and had no attitude.
Like the Empire Diner in New York but more bling and art deco! A most enjoyable night out with friends - started with a glass of champagne in the downstairs bar and then on to the restaurant for a fab meal of old favourites, especially deserts - try the apple jelly, salty caramel ice cream, black currant sorbet and the knickerbocker glory! Pricey but totally worth it!
My current favourite restaurant in London.
I feel as if I'm in a vintage railway station with the charm and elegance of an era long gone. Eccentric twists such as the boys in pink and girls in blue adds a playful twist.
The service has been wonderful so far. Charming, professional and a little playful.
The food has been faultless to date. The range brings a smile - wild haddock or traditional trifle. Grilled kippers or orange jelly. My orange juice has it's own little branded hat on, as with the embossed butter.
Overall a wonderful essence of quality, play, and attention to detail.
I've been to Bob Bob Ricard several times, and i have to say that it's a great restaurant!!!
Service is fantastic: professional and efficient.
Food is superbe: simple and tasty dishes.
I recommend potted middle white pork and perry Jelly as a starter, and as dessert the super knickerbocker glory.
Overall this is an excellent restaurant.
any live piano music here?
I guess some standards of expectation are higher than others but BBR lived up to the hype as far as I was concerned. The kippers were perfection and love the toaster on the table, not gimmicky at all perfect toast every time a rare thing at most brekfast rooms in the city.
A little early to push the champagne button but will definitley be going back to try it, home made welsh jams a joy too.
Decor superb and staff on the ball so we will be back.
Joy, a proper joint.
I was very disappointed. From the outside it looks very impressive indeed, but do not be fooled. The menu and food itself: mediocre. Certainly not worth the price you pay.The staff are unconvincing and unprofessional. They knew nothing about the menu (or about good service it seemed) though they tried very hard to appear that they did. Whatever they were trying to do with this place just does not work. Go spend your hard earned cash elsewhere!