Restaurants

Arrive around dusk and, with the birds singing in surrounding Holland Park, you see the blue neon sign shining across the car park, tempting you into one of London’s most refreshing restaurants. Inside, there are two distinct dining areas: one, up and to the left, is intimate and low-ceilinged while the other, straight ahead, is dramatic with ultra-high ceilings, silk walls, smoked mirrors and hanging silver globes. Both areas have a sense of mystery and occasion and are within earshot of the piano. On our visit, there was a wide range of diners – couples on dates, old friends, families, business people – and the service was professional and friendly. If this all seems too good to be true, the food is not perfect so much as perfectly good. Scallops with diced apple were fresh, light and interesting, while tiger prawns with a heavily coriandered salad were only fresh and light. The strongest dish was a rich, tender piece of venison which, while it lasted, outshone the location. A battered plaice with a mountain of chips was more like upmarket comfort food. A great place to get away from it all, without leaving London.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009