Restaurants

Chef-proprietor Rowley Leigh’s new restaurant opened to great acclaim at the end of 2007. There have been grumbles since, but we found little to complain about on a midsummer night. It’s situated, rather unglamorously, on the first floor of Whiteley’s shopping centre – though you wouldn’t realise if you enter by the door (and lift) on Porchester Gardens. The white, art deco-style room is very big, with floor-to-ceiling leaded windows on one side, the open kitchen, rotisserie grill and bar opposite. Tables are mixed with booth seating, so diners retain a sense of intimacy while being able to check out new arrivals: it’s definitely a see-and-be-seen kind of place. The long menu is a mix-and-match delight, divided into first courses (grilled kipper, omelette, pan tomate), fish ( fish pie, mackerel with gooseberry sauce), roasts, vegetables (mains and sides listed together) and desserts (fruits, tarts, ice-creams, cheeses). Particularly inspired are the hors d’oeuvres at £3 a pop; two or three are a great alternative to a standard starter (don’t miss the anchovy toasts with parmesan custard). Ingredients are first-rate: the wafer-thin smoked eel in a starter salad with bacon was the best we’ve ever had. Professional service, a lengthy wine list divided by region and a buzzy, West End vibe add to the satisfaction.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009